Sunday, January 18, 2015

1933 Dress - Part 2, the Muslin

So time slipped by with making a concert dress for Sprite, finishing this dress in time for the party where it was to be worn, Christmas, Christmas vacation, baby gifts and sewing new jackets for the Diva.  

Part 1

I spent most of a weekend cutting out the bodice for the 1933 dress and putting together the front.  I think that I ripped each seam at least once during the process and some of them more than once. 

The first instruction was easy:  sew the center seam on the waist (lower) bodice.  Got it.

Next you hem the yoke pieces, then sew them to the waist using a lapped seam "per instructions on the previous pages".  Except there are no instructions on the previous pages.  I did some research via Google and found a few tutorials on sewing lapped seams.

Before I could do that, I folded back the top edge of each yoke per the pattern piece instructions:

Hemming the yokes was easy:  I used my serger to overlock the edges and folded back the bottom and edges and pressed again.  Here I have placed one yolk over the other lining up the center front line:

To sew the lapped seam, I sewed the yoke into the V of the bodice, starting from the point on both sides and sewing up to the armseye.  Then, I trimmed the seam allowance and topstitched the yoke so that it lay nice and flat.  The bodice had to be eased to fit the yoke and I didn't do the best job of it on the muslin.

You already see it, don't you? The need for the full bust adjustment? It is not an alteration that I personally need to do much so I had to look up how to do one.  I didn't do it on the muslin, but I did do it in the final dress (and made the dart too long, sigh).  There ended up being a lot of adjustments needed as I did the initial fitting.

The back also had a yoke and also needed to be eased to fit.  This was much easier.  However, I didn't get a picture of that.  Actually, by the time I got to this stage, I needed to concentrate on the dress itself and didn't get too many pictures until the final finished muslin.

The sleeves.  Wow.  The band was to be eased into the sleeve then overlapped to form the sleeve cap.  This made sense after I did it a couple of times, but for the final dress, I lengthened the band to match the sleeve opening perfectly.  The easing gave a rippling effect that I didn't care for so I eliminated it altogether.   The sleeve is designed to be a 3/4 length with shirring on the forearm and enough gathering on the underarm to match the top.  I didn't do all the underarm gathering as I thought I might need to open up the seam  during fitting.  After seeing how it looked, I decided to add more shirring under the arm as well and I liked the way that turned out.

The only real change that I made to this muslin was to move the opening from the side seam to the back and to substitute an invisible zipper for the hook and eye closure.  Sewing the skirt was simple enough.  Then I had my friend come for a fitting.  We made several adjustments and I started the final dress.  Ideally, I would have made a second muslin, and in retrospect, I should have, but time got away from me.

Completed muslin:

The sleeves look funny due to the lack of shirring at the back of the sleeve.  You can definitely see the need for the FBA.  

Next and final part is about the final, completed dress.

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